How To Build A Simple Motor

How To Build A Simple Motor(wikihow)

This article will show you how to make an essential electric engine, incredible for straightforward test purposes or for a science venture. You'll be utilizing the electrical vitality from a battery to create mechanical vitality that turns a loop. This is an extremely streamlined rendition of engines found in family unit apparatuses, force instruments, PC plate drives, and a significant number of alternate gadgets that make your life less demanding.

Make the magnetic coil.

Take a thin, coated magnet wire or copper wire, and wrap it 10 times around the edge of the paper tube. Leave a few inches of loose wire at the start and end of the coil.

Carefully take the coil off the tube. Wrap the ends of the wire around the coil at opposite points of the circle. Add some tape to help keep the coil together if needed. Once you have the coil secure and balanced, you can cut off excess wire leaving only an inch on either side.

Start making the base. Poke four holes in the plastic cup using the thumbtack. Place one hole ¹⁄₂ inch (1.3 cm) from the top, and another ¹⁄₂ inch (1.3 cm) from the bottom, then do the same on the opposite side. If you don't have a plastic cup, a styrofoam or paper cup will work too.

Make the leads to the battery. Cut two pieces of stiff wire at a three times the height of the cup and thread them through the holes in the cup.

Position the cup upside down. Place one magnet on the outside of the closed end of the cup. On the inside, place another magnet, or more if necessary, to hold the first magnet in place.

Sand the wires. Sand the ends of the wires at the base of the cup and set them up to connect them to your battery.

Adjusting the wires that will hold the coil. Stand the coil up on the magnet and match the height of the coil to the support wires. Bend one of the wires connected to the base forward, and the other backwards at the height of the coil.

Make a perch. Keep bending the wires to create a perch for the coil, so that the coil is held up with as little space as possible between the coil and the magnet.

Sand the support wires. Take the coil and sand all the coating off one of the support wires. On the other wire, only sand off half of the coating so that the coating will start to touch the support when the coil is closest to the magnet. If you want to adjust the sanding, you can just apply a new coating with a permanent marker (applying the coating with a permanent marker is very important as it breaks the magnet field and keeps the coil spinning).

Connect the battery and test your motor. Secure the wire to the battery using tape, making sure that either end of the wire is touching the positive and negative ends of the battery. Some minor adjustments may be needed.

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THERMAL POWER STATION

THERMAL POWER STATION 

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Digital single-lens reflex camera

From Wikipedia

A digital single-lens reflex camera (also called a digital SLR or DSLR) is a digital camera combining the optics and the mechanisms of a single-lens reflex camera with a digital imaging sensor, as opposed to photographic film. The reflex design scheme is the primary difference between a DSLR and other digital cameras. In the reflex design, light travels through the lens, then to a mirror that alternates to send the image to either the viewfinder or the image sensor. The alternative would be to have a viewfinder with its own lens, hence the term "single lens" for this design. By using only one lens, the viewfinder presents an image that will not perceptibly differ from what is captured by the camera's sensor.

DSLR's have largely replaced film-based SLR (Single-lens reflex camera's) since 2000's and are the most preferred type of camera for photographers.

The photographer can see the subject before taking an image by the mirror. When taking an image the mirror will swing up and light will go to the sensor instead.

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High Power LED Lamp

 

Introduction

 In this page we will present an incredible venture outlined by Toon Beerten. His venture named "DIY Led Mood Lamp" can turn into an exceptionally fascinating extra for your room that is completely certain it will awe everybody. As should be obvious on the photographs, we discuss a shading blurring light, that looks stunning! 

The reason for this page is to attempt to give a few indications building it effective. This high power drove state of mind light is in view of PIC16F628 and the capacity of this mcu to deliver PWM beats. Differing heartbeat width we can deliver a great many shading mixes utilizing just the three fundamental hues. So one and only RGB (Red-Green-Blue) drove is skilled creating a rainbow of blurring hues. 

With the assistance of four switches we can deal with all elements of the light. We can pick blurring or hopping between hues, we can choose a rainbow style or an irregular shading evolving conduct, we can pick moderate or quick changing of hues and we can stop on a fancied shading. 

At long last we will make some force scattering estimations to help us select a proper power supply unit. 

Lodging for best shading diffuse 

You can utilize your creative energy to locate a lodging that will have the capacity to diffuse hues consistently. Colordifussion is important to accomplish best results. In unique plan the creator utilized the 45cm IKEA Mylonit light. That is an incredible lodging for your light. Rather you can utilize the littler 31cm IKEA Mylonit light with the same astounding results. That is the light we utilized as a part of our development. 

In our exploration we discovered different lights (ex. circle shape) that are perfect for lodging your enormous LED.

 

High Power LED

The led used is a high power 3W RGB LED. It can be found on ebay at LEDSEE-electronics. You can also check ebay for other high power RGB leds. It will do the jod the same way. Details of this brilliant led shown below.
3W high power RGB LED Light Angle of the LED 140 degree° Nominal current B,G,R 350mA Forward voltage:  Red Typ 2,2V Green Typ 3,55V Blue Typ 3,55V Wavelength of the LEDs: Red Typ 625nm Green Typ 530nm Blue Typ 470nm Luminous Intensity: RED Typ 32lm Green Typ 35lm Blue Typ 10lm LED type: Common Anode
Note: Minus on the bottom right pin is common anode (positive voltage)

Schematic

The schematic used is shown in the next image. It's as simple as it shows. Take care on the correct transistor mount and correct polarity of power source.

BC337 Pin out

Parts List

Here is a list of the components i used for making the led mood lamp.

- 3 x NPN transistors capable of driving 500 mA, for example the BC337
- one PIC 16F628(A) and a programmer
- a small perforated circuit board
- 7 x 10K resistors (1/4W)
- 1/2 watt resistors (2x 22 Ohm, 4x 10 Ohm) and a DIP switch
- a power supply (5 volts, 500 mA)
- Ikea Mylonit lamp or other housing
- silicon paste from your local DIY shop (if you want to use a heatsink)
- one z-power 3 watt rgb led
- a little heatsink and some cooling paste (if you want to use a heatsink)

Circuit board

On the next image you can see the circuit arranged on a perforated board.

Programming The PIC 16F628 Microprocessor

Programming the PIC16F628 can be achieved using this very simple pic programmer and a program called ic-prog. Just use your programmer and upload the .hex file on your PIC. For successful results you should pay attention on the fuse bits. You should enter the correct fuses as noted on the following table.
 

for code message us on fb page:

https://www.facebook.com/electronic.enginer

Fuses

IntRC I/O = Enabled
PWRT = Enabled
BODEN = Enabled
MCLR = Disabled
Rest of fuses = Disabled

DIP Switches functions

SW1 - makes you choose between G->GB->B->BR->R->RG-->>G effect and random color change effect
SW2 - makes you choose between fading and jumping from one color to another
SW3 - makes you choose between slow or fast
SW4 - pauses at the current color displayed

Mounting

A decent approach to mount the circuit board is to utilize a craft glue weapon to "shape" the circuit underneath the light lodging. There is a lot of space there for your board. At the following photographs you can see the circuit board mounted on the little 31cm IKEA Mylonit Lamp. 

The paste is still hot. Temperature of paste didn't harm the PIC or different parts. 

The paste is presently frosty and you can without much of a stretch get to the plunge switches. Light is working! 

A perspective from top of the light.

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